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  • More problems with my EP45-UD3P

    This build is 3 years old now. Had a lot of problems early on with memory timings but has basically been running pretty well for a couple of years now. Gets used a lot, heavy gaming etc.

    Today it just powered down while in Windows (7). No BSOD or anything, just shut down. It continually tried to power up but would not post at all. It wasn't the "normal" continuous reboot cycle that is common with these boards, it was simply just powering on for a few seconds, then powering off, then powering on etc. nothing being displayed on monitor, monitor remained in power save mode.

    Disconnected all peripherals, keyboard, mouse, hard drives, same result. Removed gfx card and memory, same result. Took the motherboard out of the case, same result. Connected a working power supply from another machine, same result. What happens is the 6 phase leds light up, the CPU fan starts to spin for maybe 10 secs, then the power shuts down, then it repeats, indefinitely. Does the same with both power supplys. Do those phase leds give some indication of what the problem could be. I can't remember what those leds do under normal running conditions. Anyway, the leds are 2 green, 2 yellow, then 2 red.

    What else can I try? Sounds like it's the motherboard? How can I confirm if it is the motherboard causing the problem.

    One thing I did notice when I pulled the machine apart is that the case fan that sits directly behind the CPU wasn't working, looks like it had seized up, (I thought I had a BIOS warning on that). It wasn't dirty or anything, but was very stiff. Initially I thought power supply might have been having a hard time trying to spin this fan and fried itself. The CPU fan also seemed to be spinning much slower when it was going through the power cycle on/off, maybe I was just imagining that. Anyway, this power supply powers up another PC, but I didn't give it a full workout.

    Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I want to rule out any other possible causes as best I can before I ditch the motherboard.
    (1) Gigabyte 3DAurora chassis - Gigabyte Ex38-DS4 - Xeon 3110 - Zalman CNPS9500 LED - 2x1GB PC2 8500 Crucial Ballistix Tracer 2.0v (BL12864AL106A) - ThermalTake Cyclo RAM cooler - 2xMSI Radeon HD4670 - Corsair HX 620W - WD 36GB Raptor - Seagate 250GB (ST3250310AS) - Asus DRW 2014LIT - XP Pro SP3 (32bit)
    (2) NZXT Apollo chassis - Gigabyte EP45-UD3P - E8400 - Xigmatek S1283 Red Scorpion - 2x2GB PC2 8800 G.Skill 1.9v (F2-8800CL5D-4GBPI) - Gigabyte GeForce 9600GT - Corsair HX 520W - Seagate 250GB (ST3250318AS) - LG DRW GH22NP20 - XP Pro SP3 (32bit)

  • #2
    Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

    I've now fully tested the power supply by putting it in another machine, firing up windows and running prime95 to give it a bit of a stress test. So the power supply is OK.

    I reconnect the power supply. I disconnect the case power switch cable from the board and manually jumper the power switch pins. All I got from that was a brief spin of the CPU fan. Why is this any different from just having the case power switch cable connected? Reconnected the case power switch.

    I put one stick of memory in and power it up. It seems to fire up OK (I have no video card or hard drive yet). The CPU fan is now spinning at what I would call it's normal speed, i.e. faster (and it's leds are brighter), and it stays powered up. Without this memory stick the CPU fan spins slower (the leds are duller) and it just does the continuous power up/down every 10 secs or so. So I put a video card in and I get video output, looks normal. Connect the hard drive and it loads windows OK. Now running prime95 just to stress it a bit.

    So it might be an intermittent problem with the board. Or there may have been a short when the board was in the case. But I was getting the exact same behaviour with the board out of the case. Things only start to look normal when I insert a single memory stick. Why is this so?
    (1) Gigabyte 3DAurora chassis - Gigabyte Ex38-DS4 - Xeon 3110 - Zalman CNPS9500 LED - 2x1GB PC2 8500 Crucial Ballistix Tracer 2.0v (BL12864AL106A) - ThermalTake Cyclo RAM cooler - 2xMSI Radeon HD4670 - Corsair HX 620W - WD 36GB Raptor - Seagate 250GB (ST3250310AS) - Asus DRW 2014LIT - XP Pro SP3 (32bit)
    (2) NZXT Apollo chassis - Gigabyte EP45-UD3P - E8400 - Xigmatek S1283 Red Scorpion - 2x2GB PC2 8800 G.Skill 1.9v (F2-8800CL5D-4GBPI) - Gigabyte GeForce 9600GT - Corsair HX 520W - Seagate 250GB (ST3250318AS) - LG DRW GH22NP20 - XP Pro SP3 (32bit)

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

      Is it 1.0 or 1.6 revision of MB? Suggest you may check the RAM and PSU first, and try with latest version BIOS from website

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

        Originally posted by dclayw View Post
        I've now fully tested the power supply by putting it in another machine, firing up windows and running prime95 to give it a bit of a stress test. So the power supply is OK.

        I reconnect the power supply. I disconnect the case power switch cable from the board and manually jumper the power switch pins. All I got from that was a brief spin of the CPU fan. Why is this any different from just having the case power switch cable connected? Reconnected the case power switch.

        I put one stick of memory in and power it up. It seems to fire up OK (I have no video card or hard drive yet). The CPU fan is now spinning at what I would call it's normal speed, i.e. faster (and it's leds are brighter), and it stays powered up. Without this memory stick the CPU fan spins slower (the leds are duller) and it just does the continuous power up/down every 10 secs or so. So I put a video card in and I get video output, looks normal. Connect the hard drive and it loads windows OK. Now running prime95 just to stress it a bit.

        So it might be an intermittent problem with the board. Or there may have been a short when the board was in the case. But I was getting the exact same behaviour with the board out of the case. Things only start to look normal when I insert a single memory stick. Why is this so?
        I tend to find that the "RED" memory slots work best on this mobo !

        So is it that your setup only works with 1 memory stick fitted, or have you yet tried with 2 sticks as a pair using both the YELLOW or RED slots --> maybe one of your mobo's memory slots has gone bad ?
        The more I know, the more I know I don't know...

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

          The build was stable for around 2 years running with 2 sticks in the red slots. Currently have just one stick in red slot with the board sitting outside the case, 5 hours prime95 with no problems. There is the possibility that a short has developed somewhere when the board is the case, although, when I first took the board out of the case it had the same power cycle problem that it had when it was in the case. It did not start "working" again until I added this one memory stick to the bare board (nothing else connected except CPU and the case power cable). The board is very clean, no dust etc, and no broken traces or any signs of damage, as far as I can tell. Note that I have confirmed that the PSU is fine.

          It's working right now but I expect I'm going to continue having problems, who knows with these boards. I just hate these intermittent type errors. Very hard to track down.
          (1) Gigabyte 3DAurora chassis - Gigabyte Ex38-DS4 - Xeon 3110 - Zalman CNPS9500 LED - 2x1GB PC2 8500 Crucial Ballistix Tracer 2.0v (BL12864AL106A) - ThermalTake Cyclo RAM cooler - 2xMSI Radeon HD4670 - Corsair HX 620W - WD 36GB Raptor - Seagate 250GB (ST3250310AS) - Asus DRW 2014LIT - XP Pro SP3 (32bit)
          (2) NZXT Apollo chassis - Gigabyte EP45-UD3P - E8400 - Xigmatek S1283 Red Scorpion - 2x2GB PC2 8800 G.Skill 1.9v (F2-8800CL5D-4GBPI) - Gigabyte GeForce 9600GT - Corsair HX 520W - Seagate 250GB (ST3250318AS) - LG DRW GH22NP20 - XP Pro SP3 (32bit)

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

            Originally posted by dclayw View Post
            The build was stable for around 2 years running with 2 sticks in the red slots. Currently have just one stick in red slot with the board sitting outside the case, 5 hours prime95 with no problems. There is the possibility that a short has developed somewhere when the board is the case, although, when I first took the board out of the case it had the same power cycle problem that it had when it was in the case. It did not start "working" again until I added this one memory stick to the bare board (nothing else connected except CPU and the case power cable). The board is very clean, no dust etc, and no broken traces or any signs of damage, as far as I can tell. Note that I have confirmed that the PSU is fine.

            It's working right now but I expect I'm going to continue having problems, who knows with these boards. I just hate these intermittent type errors. Very hard to track down.
            Ok, so it works with 1 stick in a RED slot. Does it matter which RED slot is used ?

            Also is it only one specific memory stick that works ok, or do you get same results nomatter which memory stick you try ?

            And does same results happen when you try with the YELLOW slots ?

            Just trying to establish that all mobo memory slots are ok; and that it isn't just that you have a faulty memory stick ?

            Of course, I am also assuming that you have Manually set the DRAM volts in the Mobo's Bios. Try to set it a bit higher than recommended for whatever MHz you want it to run ?

            Also, not that it would likely cause your particular problem, have you tried Shorting out the CMOS memory ---> just in case there is some corruption of data ?

            When dealing with unexplained Shutdown or continuous Rebooting issues, shorting the CMOS memory should be one of the first things to try!

            Removing BAD CMOS Data is the reason your Mobo comes fitted with 2 pins marked CLR_CMOS --> just need to short them together for a couple of seconds. Of course, since doing this will reset all your Bios's settings, it will then be necessary to enter the BIOS and change its settings to whatever you require for your setup !
            Last edited by jimmor; 05-18-2012, 08:06 AM.
            The more I know, the more I know I don't know...

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

              Removing BAD CMOS Data is the reason your Mobo comes fitted with 2 pins marked CLR_CMOS --> just need to short them together for a couple of seconds. Of course, since doing this will reset all your Bios's settings, it will then be necessary to enter the BIOS and change its settings to whatever you require for your setup !
              In some cases, you will need to:
              • unplug the power supply from the wall outlet
              • remove the motherboard battery
              • press and hold the front panel on/off switch for 15 - 30 seconds
              • place a jumper block on the CLR_CMOS pins for 15 minutes, several hours or overnight

              Don't forget to remove the jumper block and replace the battery before re-starting your system.
              You should immediately:
              • enter the bios
              • load optimized settings
              • save settings and exit
              • re-enter the bios
              • make any required bios settings
              • save settings and exit

              Read the user manual that describes saving and loading up to 8 different bios profiles.
              This will make it easier for you to save different bios profiles while testing and/or overclocking.
              Q9650 @ 4.10GHz [9x456MHz]
              P35-DS4 [rev: 2.0] ~ Bios: F14
              4x2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1094MHz @5-5-5-15
              MSI N460GTX Hawk Talon Attack (1GB) video card <---- SLI ---->
              Seasonic SS-660XP2 80 Plus Platinum psu (660w)
              WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data)
              Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot)
              SLI @ 16/4 works when running HyperSLI
              Cooler Master 120XL Seidon push/pull AIO cpu water cooling
              Cooler Master HAF XB computer case (RC-902XB-KKN1)
              Asus VH242H 24" monitor [1920x1080]
              MSI N460GTX Hawk (1GB) video card
              Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
              win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium
              HT|Omega Claro plus+ sound card
              CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS
              E6300 (R0) @ 3.504GHz [8x438MHz] ~~ P35-DS3L [rev: 1.0] ~ Bios: F9 ~~ 4x2GB Kingston HyperX T1 PC2-8500, 876MHz @4-4-4-10
              Seasonic X650 80+ gold psu (650w) ~~ Xigmatek Balder HDT 1283 cpu cooler ~~ Cooler Master CM 690 case (RC-690-KKN1-GP)
              Samsung 830 128GB SSD MZ-7PC128B/WW (boot) ~~ WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data) ~~ ZM-MFC2 fan controller
              HT|Omega Striker 7.1 sound card ~~ Asus VH242H monitor [1920x1080] ~~ Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
              win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium ~~ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD U.P.S
              .

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                Originally posted by profJim View Post
                In some cases, you will need to:
                • unplug the power supply from the wall outlet
                • remove the motherboard battery
                • press and hold the front panel on/off switch for 15 - 30 seconds
                • place a jumper block on the CLR_CMOS pins for 15 minutes, several hours or overnight

                Don't forget to remove the jumper block and replace the battery before re-starting your system.
                You should immediately:
                • enter the bios
                • load optimized settings
                • save settings and exit
                • re-enter the bios
                • make any required bios settings
                • save settings and exit

                Read the user manual that describes saving and loading up to 8 different bios profiles.
                This will make it easier for you to save different bios profiles while testing and/or overclocking.

                Wow, you really know how to frighten people !

                Fortunately however with this mobo it's only necessary to have the Computer switched off before Shorting the CLR_CMOS pins --> and shorting for more than just a very few seconds would be considered OVERKILL.

                Everything else you say about setting the BIOS options and Bios Profiles however, is spot on
                Last edited by jimmor; 05-18-2012, 04:55 PM.
                The more I know, the more I know I don't know...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                  shorting for more than just a very few seconds would be considered OVERKILL.
                  In theory, your are correct.
                  Your quickie approach often works, but.....
                  There are many instances in the forum when even the extended cmos clear did not work until it was repeated with the battery removed, psu unplugged, etc.
                  I didn't create the detailed approach, but I've seen many cases where the detailed cmos clear finally cleared things up and let the system boot.

                  What is so frightening about the detailed approach that I suggested?
                  Is it a PITA? Yep, kind of.
                  Does it often work when other approaches fail? Yes.
                  Does it always work? No.
                  Q9650 @ 4.10GHz [9x456MHz]
                  P35-DS4 [rev: 2.0] ~ Bios: F14
                  4x2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1094MHz @5-5-5-15
                  MSI N460GTX Hawk Talon Attack (1GB) video card <---- SLI ---->
                  Seasonic SS-660XP2 80 Plus Platinum psu (660w)
                  WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data)
                  Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot)
                  SLI @ 16/4 works when running HyperSLI
                  Cooler Master 120XL Seidon push/pull AIO cpu water cooling
                  Cooler Master HAF XB computer case (RC-902XB-KKN1)
                  Asus VH242H 24" monitor [1920x1080]
                  MSI N460GTX Hawk (1GB) video card
                  Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
                  win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium
                  HT|Omega Claro plus+ sound card
                  CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS
                  E6300 (R0) @ 3.504GHz [8x438MHz] ~~ P35-DS3L [rev: 1.0] ~ Bios: F9 ~~ 4x2GB Kingston HyperX T1 PC2-8500, 876MHz @4-4-4-10
                  Seasonic X650 80+ gold psu (650w) ~~ Xigmatek Balder HDT 1283 cpu cooler ~~ Cooler Master CM 690 case (RC-690-KKN1-GP)
                  Samsung 830 128GB SSD MZ-7PC128B/WW (boot) ~~ WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data) ~~ ZM-MFC2 fan controller
                  HT|Omega Striker 7.1 sound card ~~ Asus VH242H monitor [1920x1080] ~~ Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
                  win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium ~~ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD U.P.S
                  .

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                    Yes ProfJim is correct on this. Quite often a short clear fixes alot of this but also quite often a extended clear of upto 24hrs is need and has fix a lot of issues. So this is not overkill.
                    Main Rig
                    Gigabyte z87x-OC
                    Haswell i7 4770k - 4.7Ghz @ 1.330v LLC Extreme (L310B492)
                    G.Skill F3-1700CL9D-8GBXM DDR3-2133mhz 9-11-10-28 1.65v @ 2800mhz 12-14-14-35 1.7v
                    Samsung Green 8GB 2x4GB MV-3V4G3D/US DDR3 1.3v 30nn @ 2200Mhz 11-11-11-32 1.60v
                    Sapphire ATI HD 7970 3GB clocked 1200MHz @ 1.181v.
                    HiS ATI HD 6950
                    Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot Drive) on Intel sata3 controller port0
                    Corsair Force GT 120 GB Sata3 SSD on Intel sata3 controller port1
                    Samsung 320GB HD322GJ 7200 RPM 16M cache on Intel sata3 controller port2
                    Sony Optiarc DVD-RW AD-7240S on Intel sata3 controller port5
                    CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX PSU
                    Swiftech MCP655-B Pump
                    EK Supremacy Cpu Block
                    Swiftech Mcres Micro Rev 2 Reservoir
                    Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator




                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                      Originally posted by profJim View Post
                      In theory, your are correct.
                      Your quickie approach often works, but.....
                      There are many instances in the forum when even the extended cmos clear did not work until it was repeated with the battery removed, psu unplugged, etc.
                      I didn't create the detailed approach, but I've seen many cases where the detailed cmos clear finally cleared things up and let the system boot.

                      What is so frightening about the detailed approach that I suggested?
                      Is it a PITA? Yep, kind of.
                      Does it often work when other approaches fail? Yes.
                      Does it always work? No.
                      I don't doubt that an extended OVERKILL approach may have been found necessary with some of the many mobo types out there.

                      However, my point was more about what was necessary for the EP45-UD3P; which is the subject of this thread. And it's a mobo which I've had a number of years experience with experimental hardware/software trials where clearing the CMOS had on occasion become a necessary part !
                      Last edited by jimmor; 05-19-2012, 03:51 AM.
                      The more I know, the more I know I don't know...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                        The more I know, the more I know I don't know...
                        I find that hard to believe.
                        Readers of this thread are free to adopt either procedure.
                        We are here to share information and experience.
                        I originally said:
                        In some cases, you will need to:
                        Debating the cmos clearing options further will not help solve the issue at hand.
                        Any further posts in this thread debating quick versus extended cmos clearing techniques will be deleted.
                        Q9650 @ 4.10GHz [9x456MHz]
                        P35-DS4 [rev: 2.0] ~ Bios: F14
                        4x2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1094MHz @5-5-5-15
                        MSI N460GTX Hawk Talon Attack (1GB) video card <---- SLI ---->
                        Seasonic SS-660XP2 80 Plus Platinum psu (660w)
                        WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data)
                        Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot)
                        SLI @ 16/4 works when running HyperSLI
                        Cooler Master 120XL Seidon push/pull AIO cpu water cooling
                        Cooler Master HAF XB computer case (RC-902XB-KKN1)
                        Asus VH242H 24" monitor [1920x1080]
                        MSI N460GTX Hawk (1GB) video card
                        Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
                        win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium
                        HT|Omega Claro plus+ sound card
                        CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS
                        E6300 (R0) @ 3.504GHz [8x438MHz] ~~ P35-DS3L [rev: 1.0] ~ Bios: F9 ~~ 4x2GB Kingston HyperX T1 PC2-8500, 876MHz @4-4-4-10
                        Seasonic X650 80+ gold psu (650w) ~~ Xigmatek Balder HDT 1283 cpu cooler ~~ Cooler Master CM 690 case (RC-690-KKN1-GP)
                        Samsung 830 128GB SSD MZ-7PC128B/WW (boot) ~~ WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data) ~~ ZM-MFC2 fan controller
                        HT|Omega Striker 7.1 sound card ~~ Asus VH242H monitor [1920x1080] ~~ Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
                        win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium ~~ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD U.P.S
                        .

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                          Originally posted by profJim View Post
                          In some cases, you will need to:
                          • unplug the power supply from the wall outlet
                          • remove the motherboard battery
                          • press and hold the front panel on/off switch for 15 - 30 seconds
                          • place a jumper block on the CLR_CMOS pins for 15 minutes, several hours or overnight

                          Don't forget to remove the jumper block and replace the battery before re-starting your system.
                          You should immediately:
                          • enter the bios
                          • load optimized settings
                          • save settings and exit
                          • re-enter the bios
                          • make any required bios settings
                          • save settings and exit

                          Read the user manual that describes saving and loading up to 8 different bios profiles.
                          This will make it easier for you to save different bios profiles while testing and/or overclocking.
                          Man you save my EP45-UD3P, i tried everything and yesterday i was going to throw out my mainboard, somehow i found your post tried block cmos for 20hours and its working like new one. thank you soo much.
                          Xeon X5460
                          Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P
                          3x 1GB DDR2 KVR800D2N6/1G Kingston
                          Radeon HD 5830
                          PSU IBOX 550W
                          SSD Samsung 840 Evo
                          Case Lian Li PC-V750
                          CPU Cooler Thermaltake Silver Arrow SB-E EXTREME

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                            You're welcome, glad to help out.

                            I have never needed to use the "overkill" procedure, but over the years I've seen this procedure fix many motherboards when other procedures failed.

                            Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting about your success.
                            Q9650 @ 4.10GHz [9x456MHz]
                            P35-DS4 [rev: 2.0] ~ Bios: F14
                            4x2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1094MHz @5-5-5-15
                            MSI N460GTX Hawk Talon Attack (1GB) video card <---- SLI ---->
                            Seasonic SS-660XP2 80 Plus Platinum psu (660w)
                            WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data)
                            Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot)
                            SLI @ 16/4 works when running HyperSLI
                            Cooler Master 120XL Seidon push/pull AIO cpu water cooling
                            Cooler Master HAF XB computer case (RC-902XB-KKN1)
                            Asus VH242H 24" monitor [1920x1080]
                            MSI N460GTX Hawk (1GB) video card
                            Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
                            win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium
                            HT|Omega Claro plus+ sound card
                            CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS
                            E6300 (R0) @ 3.504GHz [8x438MHz] ~~ P35-DS3L [rev: 1.0] ~ Bios: F9 ~~ 4x2GB Kingston HyperX T1 PC2-8500, 876MHz @4-4-4-10
                            Seasonic X650 80+ gold psu (650w) ~~ Xigmatek Balder HDT 1283 cpu cooler ~~ Cooler Master CM 690 case (RC-690-KKN1-GP)
                            Samsung 830 128GB SSD MZ-7PC128B/WW (boot) ~~ WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data) ~~ ZM-MFC2 fan controller
                            HT|Omega Striker 7.1 sound card ~~ Asus VH242H monitor [1920x1080] ~~ Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
                            win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium ~~ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD U.P.S
                            .

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: More problems with my EP45-UD3P

                              Originally posted by profJim View Post
                              You're welcome, glad to help out.

                              I have never needed to use the "overkill" procedure, but over the years I've seen this procedure fix many motherboards when other procedures failed.

                              Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting about your success.
                              problem backs, in month pc turn off 2 times and i couldnt make him work till i used your overkill procedure again
                              Last edited by Koksik22; 12-30-2015, 08:43 PM.
                              Xeon X5460
                              Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P
                              3x 1GB DDR2 KVR800D2N6/1G Kingston
                              Radeon HD 5830
                              PSU IBOX 550W
                              SSD Samsung 840 Evo
                              Case Lian Li PC-V750
                              CPU Cooler Thermaltake Silver Arrow SB-E EXTREME

                              Comment

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