Upgrading from an 1800+ to a 2500+

[Wiggo]

Palaminoes have they're details etched onto the core face while Thoroughbreds have theirs contained on a sticker placed on the body but I'm sure that someone here will know how to with software though ya memory should be ok.

[chezman]

Mines a thoroughbred. I am just not sure how to clock it some more. Or just leave it at 12*145/396. It is stable and running at 1740mhz, vs. the standard 1533mhz. Pretty fun.
I want to get my new machine up and running so I can really tweak the FSB settings with the new ram I have, plus OC it. I shouldn't have to unlock it since the A7N8X rev 2.0 is an nforce board, but I will see.


Chez

[Wiggo]

Sorry m8 but you stated a VIA based mobo not an nForce2 one (also check ya sig).

Here is my system info:

A7V8X Bios ver. 1014
1800+
2x256mg Pc2700
60 gig WD
40 gig Maxtor
Geforce 4 Ti4200

So start off with 10 or 10.5 x 166MHz but once ya start on the FSB ya PC2700 (166MHz) is goin' to be a limiting factor.

[chezman]

Sorry wiggo.

Here's the deal. I have 4 systems, plus the laptop I am using now, and use 70% of the time for internet surfing, since I can do it anywhere. I am fully wireless with all my machines.

The A7 V 8X is my 2nd machine. It is now my OCer play machine. The machine listed in my stats is my NEW machine I am in the process of building. So I am still ordering parts and stuff. The case is all wired up, solder dual intake and exhaust fans like they had it stock so I would have less wires flying around. I put in Clear Blue UV sensitive fans. I am doing it up right with a modded PSU from www.performance-pcs.com



So all the wires are nice and tidy. Plus you can just disconnect the P4 stuff if you are using an AMD or any other PSU cord you don't need. Instead of stuffing it in the case somewhere out of the way. Costs extra, but with a 3 window case, I think it will add a little class. I also am soldering/heatshrinking/UV wrapping all the wires to make it look and perform like a classy PC. I am taking my time and doing it right.
I'll try those settings you suggested. Although it hasn't seemed to like anything except running at 1740mhz - 12*145/396 , Stock is 1533mhz. So I got a good boost, just not on the FSB.
Thanks for your help. I will try those settings out now and see if it will boot,
Chez


The A7V8X has the KT400 Northbridge which is 200/266/333/400 compatible from what they say.

[FLaCo]

Wow that is a badass PSU..worth getting when my all new comp comes around. Seems like you just use what you need and you won't have a mess...not bad i like i like...:D

[Malabooboo]

i've got a palomino then...do those run hotter?

[chezman]

Yeah, I am doing my homework on this one. I got the Antec 480Blue. You can pic between the 430,480,480B and different power supply companies. You can pic the wrap, heatshink color, just about everything. They come out to between $170-$250 for a decent one. But I figure, you buy it ONCE.
Just like I said before, do your homework, get things setup right and done right the 1st time with your hardware, and your software will go smoothly and your hardware will take care of you.
I have checked around 50-75 sites just to find the right stuff, at the right price, and to compare reviews, ect. to make sure I am getting exactly what I want. AND I STILL HAVE HAD TO RMA SOME STUFF!!! :flames:
Namely a NEC/Mitsu flat screen that didn't turn out to be what the ONE pic looked like. Newegg RMAed it, but I have to pay $50 for restock, she cut me a deal on that thank god. But the Cornea Iam getting is just hands down the best, in the reviews and I already know cause I have had a 17" Cornea for about 2 years now and love it.



I can't wait till it comes in. And it is only $619.00, free shipping as always at newegg. Its a sweet deal.
Chez

[Wiggo]

Malabooboo[/size]]
i've got a palomino then...do those run hotter?

Yes they do run hotter as their voltage setting is higher as they were built on the old 0.18 micron manufacturing process where as the Thoroughbred is built on the newer 0.13 micron process.

[Malabooboo]

still ok with overclocking though?

[Wiggo]

Oh yes as I have one here that's runnin' as an XP2100+ but it is warm.

[chezman]

I just got mine to run 10*169. but that is about all I can get out of it. The ram in it is generic running SPD 2.5 3-3-7. I bumped the v. up to 1.85v.
I'm happy with that for that machine.

I just wonder if the 1 gig of Geil is going to do my new system justice at the settings it has listed in my stats. Or if I should pic up some corsair.
I still haven't gotten a clear answer from anyone at house of help on what the best dual channel is for the A7N8X with the 2500+ in it.
Chez

I still have gotta buy a good video card and money is getting tighter now that I am down to the wire.
The 9800 PRO AIW is coming out soon. I wonder if that will drop the price of the 9700PROAIW which is $350 right now. I have NEVER bought a video card over $250, and always Nvidia. So I don't know what I should do. I really want the video/tv capabilities of the AIW, although dang they are pricey :wow:

[Malabooboo]

still ok with overclocking though?

[chezman]

Malaboo,

Just use Asus probe, which will tell you your temps of your chip, and your mobo. You can set it to record the temps and watch it on a graph.
30-50celcius and you should be fine. above that I would watch it.
That is all I know. Maybe wiggo has some better info.

Thats what I use though. I am ocing mine and haven't gotten over 35celcius yet. But they don't recommend ocing a 1800+(1533mhz) above 1750mhz. So I am keeping it around there.
If I had some better ram I would bump the FSB higher, that is where you will notice the best gains, not in necessarily just raw mhz clock speed, but in FSB speed.
At least from what I have read and heard.
Chez

Asus probe should have came with your mobo disks btw.

Are you using an aftermarket cooler, with thermal paste, and did you lap it at all? Those things help to keep the temps down too.

[Malabooboo]

i just read tt's article:

http://www.tweaktown.com/document.php?dType=review&dId=203&dPage=3

is there anything I can use as a gap filler and conductive grease (will arctic silver work) that i might already have?

[chezman]

You can use superglue to fill the lazer gaps. Although you will need a magnifying glass. I am not sure if artic silver will work or not. Artic silver is not meant to be CONDUCTIVE, it is meant to be thermally conductive, to transfer heat. Although it might work.

Personally I tried to do it on my own, did the superglue fine, then just bought the kit for $11 since it has a little magnifying glass and the conductive grease.
You can also use the automotive etching repair stuff for window defrosters from what I read if you want.
Just make sure you use a magnifying glass and don't have one bridge touch the other. You have to make five connections, and there isn't very much room between them. If you make a mistake and connect 2 of the L1 bridges it will fry the chip from what I heard.
It is easy with the kit, a pin, and a magnifying glass. It is also a good idea to pick up a shim while you are at it.
If you do connect two of the bridges, it has a cleaner to just wipe it all off and start over. They don't recommend just trying to clean in between the bridges. Just clean it all off and start over. That is what makes the kit good. I got lucky, went slow and got t right on my 1st try. Never would have made it without a magnifying glass. It has its own little stand too, so you don't have to try and hold that, the pin, ect. ect. ect.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
XPkit XP Unlocking Kit 1
$11.99 $11.99
AMDshim Purple Anodized AMD Shim (Fits XP, Tbred) 1
$8.50 $8.50
Shipping: Priority
Mail: $3.85

Sales Tax: $0.00
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Total: $24.34

I bought it at www.highspeedpc.com

Good luck.
Chez
Just my 2 cents.
:blah: