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  • Unlocking XP's

    Anyone have a suggestion as to what's best to use to connect the L1's on an XP?

    I've seen a couple different material used to fille the pits wax, nonconductive glue etc.

    I've heard about "conductive ink" to connect the bridges - but I'm not exactly sure what that is or where to get it , I've also seen "conductive epoxy" in unlocking kits. Conductive epoxy sounds like a good way to f*ck up your CPU permanently if you don't get it right
    - I'll probably try Radio Shack

    I've never even had to do the pencil trick before on a T'Bird - my 1200 & 1400 both came unlocked :D

    I'll have a week or so off around Christmas time so I think I'll give it a go

  • #2
    Originally posted by RDR

    I've heard about "conductive ink" to connect the bridges - but I'm not exactly sure what that is or where to get it , I've also seen "conductive epoxy" in unlocking kits. Conductive epoxy sounds like a good way to f*ck up your CPU permanently if you don't get it right
    - I'll probably try Radio Shack

    both came unlocked :D

    I'll have a week or so off around Christmas time so I think I'll give it a go
    Wiggo or Darth would better sources. I'm like you, I was going for a factory unlocked chip, too. But when I got ready to buy, my source and several others drop them, with out explination.... word I got was the failure rate was too high. I'm wondering if the Ink is the same as the Auto glass defogger paint, I've read this material has been used, several places. But of all the various methods I read about, I read a lot of reluctance on a prefered recommended method. I've also have seen quite a few help me threads, where the guy frying and die'n. I've opted to wait an see for a bite longer.......my option and two bits gets ya a cup of coffee..:)

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    • #3
      Silver Trace Pencil

      Micro Tip trace pencil for unlocking or repairing broken traces.
      No need to mix two compounds or worry if you have the right mixture, NO guessing required.

      The trace is conductive in 5-10 minutes. Air cure is reached in 45 minutes. Way shorter
      drying time than other unlocking tools. Some you need to wait as long as 24 hours before
      you can use the chip

      Multiple uses, better than the one shot trace tape and cheaper too.

      Instructions

      1. clean surface to be repaired
      2. Tap the top of the pen on a hard surface to free the mixing balls. Shake vigorously for 20 seconds to mix material
      3. Practice with pen before working on repair. Press pen lightly agains surface to be repaired. Squeeze barell firmly to start and regulate flow.
      4. Trace is conductive in 5-10 minutes. Air cure is reached in 45 minutes.
      5. Wipe pen tip clean after each use and replace the cap.
      6.


      Price : CND $ 29.99

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      • #4
        http://www.amkcomputer.com/amkpc/ind...talog39_0.html


        this looks like it might be the stuff - not cheap though $29.99cdn
        that's about $40 for you Aussies

        I'm not really one to let price stop me though.......I'll probably get it unless some suggests something better

        I can get conductive epoxy for about $19.99cdn - but I can just picture myself trying get a hardened glob of epoxy off of 2 or 3 of my L1's if it doesn't go right the first time :rolleyes: :mad: :hammer:

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Dlab

          my option and two bits gets ya a cup of coffee..:)
          BTW coffee is expensive in Canada - I need $1.14 for medium

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          • #6
            :D well done...........saved this one to Fav's.

            Ok 6 bits USD, & bits 7 bits, and 12 bit ausd.....hehehe all this higher math

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            • #7
              Call me impatient - I just ordered one
              ;)
              I'll get it next week - a little practise time first, then go for the un lock
              Probably do it at work so I can use the 40X stereo Zoom to see a little better:eek:

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              • #8
                :D be very interested in the out come. GL:D

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Dlab
                  :D be very interested in the out come. GL:D

                  You can be sure I'll post my results - hopefully they'll be favourable

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                  • #10
                    RDR use some nail polish remover 1st to clean the cuts outs then fill them with a non-conductive material (such as superglue or nail varnish) as there is a very fine copper mesh in the trenches that will short the CPU out if ya don't then connect the bridges. Best to use a good tape to tape off the bridges except for the on ya workin' so as to do one at a time and that way ya'll be sure not to crosslink the bridges as they are much closer together than the old 'birds. ;)

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                    • #11
                      I saw a how-to article not to long ago ( I don't recall where) the guy filled the pits with wax from a crayola crayon & drew his silver traces across the wax.

                      seems a little crude - but less permanent than superglue or epoxy

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                      • #12
                        RDR, I used that exact same pen on my XP and it's worked fine for three weeks at least. I cost me about $35 Aussie dollars from Dick Smith's. I'm sure that the rear demister repair kit would be cheaper, but as I was using a $400 processor, I didn't care much.

                        First I cleaned the bridges with isopropanol and nail polish remover. This was some job, because there was a 'warranty void if removed' sticker over the bridges and it left a lot of gummy residue behind :(. I guess my warranty is void now :D

                        Next I used superglue in a line to fill in the L1 pits. Care must be taken to mask off the contacts on either side of the pits. This was easy and really filled in the pits well.

                        Ten minutes later I carefully masked off each bridge and used that pen to make the connections. It tended not to come out real smooth, and examining the connections under strong magnification, it looked like a very rough finish (like looking at the moon through a telescope!). Still, it did the trick :D.

                        I used a multimeter to test continuity across the connections to be sure, and I ended up having to redo one bridge because the connection didn't work.

                        All in all, a very time consuming process. Those pits are a lot smaller than they look in web articles. I had the processor back in the box and overclocking an hour after I had finished. 'Twas a good nights work.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by RDR
                          I saw a how-to article not to long ago ( I don't recall where) the guy filled the pits with wax from a crayola crayon & drew his silver traces across the wax.

                          seems a little crude - but less permanent than superglue or epoxy
                          I would have thought that the Athlon temps would have melted the wax and made a mess. hmmm


                          JM
                          Have you hugged a Midget today?

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                          • #14
                            ;) think ya got something there, jm.....I must'a been .

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                            • #15
                              Yeah I seen the crayon one to and my thoughts were the same about the heat produced. :devil:

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