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A reducer will generally cause a good deal of turbulence, especially when you want to reduce the airflow tube by a third.
As to the resonating; I take it you're referring to a slight vibration caused bu the slower spinning fan blades? If so, then you should have no problems even when taking the voltage down to about 7v and sometimes even less. If you run into problems, it will likely be caused by either a poorly manufactured fan or possible an off-center label in the middle of the fan (yep... that pretty little sticker to tell you who made the fan).Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill
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Would it be more efficient if I would put that 120mm fan about 5-10cm (depends how much there is space in the case) away from the heatsink (without the mount adapter of course). Would it cool the heatsink better than the 92mm fan which would be attached to the heatsink (or should I have a bigger heatsink if I wanna use that 120mm fan)? I was thinking to buy the Thermalright SLK-900-U heatsink. :hammer:
BTW, which manufacturer makes the best fans? (Papst, Y.S. Tech maybe?) :?:Comment
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There are many good fan manufacturers out there now but I personally wouldn't go past usin' the 80mm to 92mm adaptor. As Darth pointed out, the 120mm is 1/3rd bigger than the 80mm is diameter but realistically it'd be tryin' to push twice as much volume thru the same aperture which'll mean a considerable back pressure which would not only hinder the fan but very likely impact on coolin' as well.
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Personally I'd stick with the 92mm fan on the heatsink.
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I used a 120mm Papst fan on the Thermaltake Volcano 11 heatsink by mounting it on an adapter. If you go for a 120mm fan, I strongly recommand that you use an 80mm to 120mm fan adapter. I got quite good results with that.
There are two things about powerful fans and fan controllers you should consider: First, strong fans sometimes need up to 8 watt, so make sure the fan controller is able to provide enough power. Second, some fans need at least 7V or more to start working. If that's the case, never ever shut down the system with the fan controller being at the lowest level.Comment
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Originally posted by ZarathustraComment
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Exactly. Some good fan controllers will have the fans run with 12V for the first seconds, ignoring the actual settings, and then switch back to them.Originally posted by Tomi_s
hardwareluxx.de, hardwareluxx.de (2))You have now given me the opposite advices regarding that fan adapter.
What CPU did you have and what kind of temps did you got with that system? Did you compared the temps you got with the 120mm fan and with the normal (80mm or 92mm) fan? :?:
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At the risk of telling you what you already know Tomi_S:
As long as you connect the RPM wire of a 3-pin 120mm fan to the A7N8X mobo you're running, Asus Probe (Or Motherboard Monitor) would set off an alarm, or shut down your machine if the fan wouldn't start. I like this method, as you can power the fan directly from the PSU with an adapter, or through a fanbus, and not draw power from the mobo. The risk of frying your CPU would be the same as with any other fan....pretty minimal, as long as there's still a HS attached. If you have the room in your case for the 120mm and adapter (I don't, as my CPU is a bit too close to the PSU) I don't see any problems with it....and a few advantages. Are you thinking of ducting straight from the case side to the HS with that 120mm?
:thumb: :cheers:Comment
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Right, but that's because the fan is used with a Thermalright SLK 900 heatsink. Even though it is possible to mount an 80mm fan on it, it does not come with the necessary holes for an adapter. On most other heatsink, it should be more convenient.Originally posted by Tomi_sComment
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I think it's a good idea to go for the Thermalright SLK. It's just that you have to be a bit creative to mount the adapter on it.Comment
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