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stasio I’m curious if there has been any beta bios update for the z590 vision d? F5 has some serious problems in s3 sleep with non-windows OSes. I had to go back to an earlier T bios.
Thanks. I was referring to like a f6 beta but appears we have to wait. F5 has been released on the website, dated June 21. Has some bugs, with s3 sleep in non windows OSes and also the initial boot after installation, I had to turn off the power supply multiple times to get the system to do the initial post after F5 installation. so I will just have to wait...
Inevitably the Intel Bluetooth still disappeared from device manager after some days with F13 on B550i - so this issue is not resolved. As I've found I still cant use both front USB so my own USB issues aren't resolved with F13 either its been very disappointing using AMD/GB for this build.
Inevitably the Intel Bluetooth still disappeared from device manager after some days with F13 on B550i - so this issue is not resolved. As I've found I still cant use both front USB so my own USB issues aren't resolved with F13 either its been very disappointing using AMD/GB for this build.
The BIOS fixes alone do not resolve the Intel BT issue. You need the latest Intel BT and WiFi AX200 drivers, in addition to the F13 release BIOS.
I've ran the F13 BIOS without any BT issues on the B550i board.
The BIOS fixes alone do not resolve the Intel BT issue. You need the latest Intel BT and WiFi AX200 drivers, in addition to the F13 release BIOS.
I've ran the F13 BIOS without any BT issues on the B550i board.
I'm happy for you but yes I have the latest driver but that has no effect on this particular issue. I'm simply reporting that in my use case - which is to hibernate the PC - the problem came back within a few days which is the same time frame as F12 - its a random event so two clear weeks with no-one seeing it any more would have been needed.
In BIOS they might have been able to gate power to the AX200 at suspend which might have cured it or they might have found some other way after talking to Intel to reset the glitch during startup but given I'm still seeing the problem its simply not fixed.
I'm happy for you but yes I have the latest driver but that has no effect on this particular issue. I'm simply reporting that in my use case - which is to hibernate the PC - the problem came back within a few days which is the same time frame as F12 - its a random event so two clear weeks with no-one seeing it any more would have been needed.
In BIOS they might have been able to gate power to the AX200 at suspend which might have cured it or they might have found some other way after talking to Intel to reset the glitch during startup but given I'm still seeing the problem its simply not fixed.
Go to device manager.
Click on HID (Human Interface Devices)
Click on Bluetooth Low Energy GATT...
Go to Power Management and uncheck the "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power".
Another item you should check.
Turn off WINDOW'S fast boot Power option (this really does not slow down boot time when disabled).
I am also on the B550i and using several BT devices, and do not have this issue. F13 Bios, 22.60.0 BT driver
stasio There seems to be a shared bug with x470 gaming 7, b550 pro-p and all other AM4 boards that can change BCLK clock - if I set bclk above 104.5 mhz, boost locks up at base frequency (and if it's at 104.5mhz or below, it works just fine). I tried sending the bug report via e-support, but it seems they are incapable of redirecting my bug report to the HQ.
Why would Gigabyte hide the MBIST setting "Interface Mode" and leave only the "Data Eye Mode" exposed to end users? I see PHY training still contains the same options, although there's still no explanation of how to input "CPU VREF Training Seed Control" or "MR6VREFDQ Control" settings (Hex? Volts? Millivolts?)
Anyone out there with some insight, please share with the class...
Back in the day with binned CPUs you could buy a cheaper tier and clock it to match the top one - but these days extra money buys you cores and given the CPU load in-game is moderate the CPU impact and RAM timings impact if youve already set XMP arent worth the effort and stability risk - only the GPU choice and game settings make a real difference. Reducing power and noise is more valuable these days so undervolting is where effort does makes sense. Deltas of a few percent look even less useful as we're back to 20% + improvements in CPU generations.
Disagree entirely, reducing my RAM latency from like 63-65ns on XMP to 54ns when tuned carefully can have a big impact on some games. The performance is there, the overclock is stable, why would I not do a little bit of work to get it? Like buying a car that runs on 93 octane but running it on 87 just because it "can" (look up knock sensors if you don't believe me) and just living with the 20% lower power cuz it's easier. It cost nothing more than a few hours of my free time to get that extra 10% of frames in GPU-limited games.
Anyway, I think I'm sticking with F33 for now since the RAM is running decently as-is, if it's not broken, don't fix it. In my experience with electronics, if it's working fine but you get greedy and try to improve it by updating some software/firmware because you might be able to get a tiny improvement, it all just goes downhill because the universe is spiteful.
Go to device manager.
Click on HID (Human Interface Devices)
Click on Bluetooth Low Energy GATT...
I don't see this on my B550i, running F13 BIOS final and 22.60.0 BT driver too. Weird! I've found that if I use my USB headset, bluetooth will drop / recover while listening to Spotify only, however if I use BT headphones and Spotify, it doesn't drop. Maybe I need to reinstall Windows?
I don't see this on my B550i, running F13 BIOS final and 22.60.0 BT driver too. Weird! I've found that if I use my USB headset, bluetooth will drop / recover while listening to Spotify only, however if I use BT headphones and Spotify, it doesn't drop. Maybe I need to reinstall Windows?
You might not see Bluetooth Low Energy GATT.
What you can do in device manager is
Click on the actual device thats connected by BT - like the keyboard
Change view to Show Device By Connection
Look up the device tree and you'll see Bluetooth HID device
This has a power management setting
Unfortunately all these helpful suggestions are guesswork, myth and snake oil
Firstly I'm talking about the device not appearing in device manager until power removed. A yellow triangle or the BT device not connecting to the PC are completely different issues even though they all mean the connection is "dropped"
If people really want to claim they have a fix then they can easily prove it
Show its working for two weeks with no loss of module using hibernate and sleep every day
Revert the setting or driver version they claim is the fix
Show it then fails in a couple of days
Change back the setting or driver version
Show its back working for two weeks with no loss of module using hibernate and sleep every day
Disagree entirely, reducing my RAM latency from like 63-65ns on XMP to 54ns when tuned carefully can have a big impact on some games. The performance is there, the overclock is stable, why would I not do a little bit of work to get it? Like buying a car that runs on 93 octane but running it on 87 just because it "can" (look up knock sensors if you don't believe me) and just living with the 20% lower power cuz it's easier. It cost nothing more than a few hours of my free time to get that extra 10% of frames in GPU-limited games.
Anyway, I think I'm sticking with F33 for now since the RAM is running decently as-is, if it's not broken, don't fix it. In my experience with electronics, if it's working fine but you get greedy and try to improve it by updating some software/firmware because you might be able to get a tiny improvement, it all just goes downhill because the universe is spiteful.
To be fair youre saying both to spend time to maybe get some improvement in some games (but what games what settings what resolution what GPU) even if it puts yourself at risk of stability in other PC uses and then underneath say if its not broken dont fix it and dont get greedy etc
When I see some of the issues people post - from WHEA to random reboots - and I know I'm getting adequate CPU perf from a stock 5800x (and even in ECO mode) with 3600CL16 XMP I'm happy just to undervolt my Ampere as in ITX it does put out a lot of heat.
I tired F13 after waiting a bit and carefully reverting settings etc before flashing but its not really helped with onboard devices issues with AMD/GB
The USB Soundcard problem is solved by DDU. It deletes all realtek/creative files. Then you have to load the driver from windows update and after that you can install the controlpanel by the driver package.
The wlan/bluetooth problem cant be solved this way.
So i had every bios for the last 9 month on my B550i AX Pro and from day 1 till now the WHEA wont go. The unstable limit is 1866mhz. This didnt change from the beginning.
Most of the users use ProccODT around 43, RTTNom=disabled, RTTWR=RZQ/3 and RTTPARK=RZQ/1, VDDG/VDDP under 1v and VSOC <1100mv (getting unstable above 1030-1050mv)
Some ppl reach high FCLK by forcing extreme voltages.
I know it sucks but the AMD spec says anything above 3200MHZ is considered OC. I guess that means anything above 1600HZ for FCLK is considered OC as well. That means they will not try to fix WHEA errors happening above those speeds.
What you can do in device manager is
Click on the actual device thats connected by BT - like the keyboard
Change view to Show Device By Connection
Look up the device tree and you'll see Bluetooth HID device
This has a power management setting
Unfortunately all these helpful suggestions are guesswork, myth and snake oil
Firstly I'm talking about the device not appearing in device manager until power removed. A yellow triangle or the BT device not connecting to the PC are completely different issues even though they all mean the connection is "dropped"
If people really want to claim they have a fix then they can easily prove it
This is called testing.
How is this for testing... Doing my recommendation for the Bluetooth Low Energy GATT and turning off Window's FAST BOOT has kept my BT from disappearing completely from device manager since January even back on the F11 Bios, running 24/7. Which also confirms it was never a BIOS issue. (Never had the yellow triangle issue).
I have posted this regularly on the GB reddit (/KythornAlturack). It's not guesswork, myth and snake oil.
I also have multiple BT devices that I run at once.
Note: "Bluetooth Low Energy GATT" is not located under Bluetooth, but under Human Interface Devices in the Device Manager, With it being located here, seems to indicate that there is a relationship to USB, then again I never had any issues with USB with any of the ports.
Although with F11, installing the BT driver .50 would break RGB Fusion 2,0 functionality (RGB would go solid from a defined pattern and could not be changed) and show a failed USB device, which also is connected to the USB controller as well. F13 + BT .60 has absolutely no issue.
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